{"id":5424,"date":"2024-01-08T10:25:55","date_gmt":"2024-01-08T08:25:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/?p=5424"},"modified":"2024-01-08T10:27:24","modified_gmt":"2024-01-08T08:27:24","slug":"in-crete-thoroughly-modern-wines-are-steeped-in-history-here-are-7-to-try","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/press-reviews\/in-crete-thoroughly-modern-wines-are-steeped-in-history-here-are-7-to-try\/","title":{"rendered":"In Crete, Thoroughly Modern Wines Are Steeped in History. Here Are 7 to Try."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Source: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/ratings\/wine-ratings\/best-crete-wines\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Wine Enthusiast<\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"row\">\n<div class=\"col-md-12\">\n<header class=\"entry-header\">\n<div class=\"article-meta\"><span class=\"article-author flipboard-author\">By <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/contributor\/emily-saladino\/\">Emily Saladino<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"col-md-12 article-featured-image-full-width has-image\">\n<div class=\"featured-image-full-width\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"attachment-article-header-full size-article-header-full wp-post-image\" src=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-1280x853.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-1280x853.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-140x92.jpg 140w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-180x120.jpg 180w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-830x553.jpg 830w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-350x233.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-630x420.jpg 630w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-384x256.jpg 384w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-620x413.jpg 620w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-580x387.jpg 580w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson-415x276.jpg 415w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Crete_Wines_HERO_-VikiTsatsaba_EleniKefalopoulou__PaulJohnson.jpg 1920w\" alt=\"A collage of Crete wine makers on a designed background\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" \/><\/div>\n<div class=\"featured-image-caption\">Images Courtesy of Viki Tsatsaba, Eleni Kefalopoulou, Paul Johnson<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"row justify-content-between\">\n<div class=\"col-12 col-lg-8\">\n<div class=\"row\">\n<div class=\"col-md-1 social-share-wrapper\">\n<div class=\"social-share social-share-default d-none d-md-block\">\n<div class=\"menu topLeft\">\n<div class=\"share bottom\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"col-md-11\">\n<p class=\"small\"><em>When you buy something through our link, we may earn a small commission. Wine Enthusiast does not accept money for editorial wine reviews. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/our-buying-guide-and-blind-tasting-process\/\">Read more about our policy.<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<section class=\"article-content\">\n<div class=\"entry-content\">\n<p>In 2007, when Alexandra Manousakis left a corporate job in New York City to move to her family\u2019s home in rural <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/region\/greece\/\">Crete<\/a>, the wine scene on the Greek island was, in her words, \u201ctraditional.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere wasn\u2019t a wine bar, you couldn\u2019t find a stemmed glass,\u201d she says. Many locals had only recently begun putting their bulk wine into bottles. Much of it was simply labeled \u201cVins de Crete,\u201d and contained a blend of whatever red or white grapes had ripened in tandem in mixed plots.<\/p>\n<p>Fast forward to 2023, and Manousakis is the second-generation owner of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.manousakiswinery.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Manousakis Winery<\/a> in Vatolakkos, Crete. It produces 150,000 bottles a year, including Syrah and Mourvedre that her father planted in 1993, as well as Cretan varieties like Vidiano, a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/culture\/travel\/the-a-to-zs-of-greece-wine\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">white wine grape<\/a> noted for its ageability, and Muscat de Spina, a local Muscat clone capable of Gewurztraminer-esque aromatics. The estate hosts tastings and events at its taverna, and partners with a tour operator to host trips throughout the region.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-spacer\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/div>\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>You May Also Like: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/culture\/travel\/best-santorini-wine-travel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">A Wine Lover\u2019s Guide to Santorini<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-spacer\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/div>\n<p>The Manousakis family\u2019s story plays on repeat across Crete. The island has a wine culture that spans millennia, but its modern industry just started to take shape in the last two decades. That\u2019s when a series of cultural, demographic and economic changes radically altered the way Cretans make, drink and sell wine.<\/p>\n<p>All of this means that right now is a pivotal time for anyone interested in buying or drinking Cretan wine. Unlike many European regions, the best and most <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/culture\/wine\/what-happens-wine-ages\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">age-worthy<\/a> wines from Crete were made in the last 10 to 15 years, and often cost less than $25. The question isn\u2019t whether wines from Crete will continue to improve with time\u2014they already are. Instead, it\u2019s if far-flung drinkers will embrace these relative newcomers far afield from the usual noble grapes and boldfaced domaines.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-161117\" src=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1024x683.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-140x92.jpg 140w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-180x120.jpg 180w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-830x553.jpg 830w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-350x233.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-630x420.jpg 630w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-384x256.jpg 384w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-620x413.jpg 620w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-580x387.jpg 580w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-415x276.jpg 415w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1280x853.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Manousakis_Winery_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" alt=\"Manousakis Winery\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Manousakis Winery \/ Image Courtesy of Viki Tsatsaba<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>How We Got Here<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>As with any destination with a long history of human inhabitants, life on Crete has had its ups and downs. These include Bronze-age Minoan civilizations and periods under Roman, Byzantine, medieval Venetian and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/culture\/spirits\/bomonti-beer-turkey-history\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Ottoman<\/a> rule. The latter era spanned 250 years and thwarted uprisings, until Crete won its independence in 1898.<\/p>\n<p>In 1913, Crete became part of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/region\/greece\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Greece<\/a>. The largest island in a European country famous for picture-perfect beaches, Crete was home to many businesses initially focused more on tourism than wine. And so, as France began classifying its AOC vineyards in the 1950s, Cretan grape growers were perfectly happy producing bulk wine for sunburnt cruisers.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cA few large producers dominated wine production, focusing on high-volume, standard-quality wines to quench the thirst of tourists and later of the all-inclusive hotel guests,\u201d says Eleni Kefalopoulou, a wine writer for <em>Oinoxoos Magazine<\/em> and <em>Kathimerini<\/em> newspaper in Athens. \u201cIn a way, this blocked the evolution of a modern wine industry.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-161116\" src=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-1024x683.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-140x92.jpg 140w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-180x120.jpg 180w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-830x553.jpg 830w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-350x233.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-630x420.jpg 630w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-384x256.jpg 384w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-620x413.jpg 620w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-580x387.jpg 580w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-415x276.jpg 415w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280-1280x853.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_INSET_Eleni_Kefalopoulou_1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" alt=\"Eleni Kefalopoulou\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Eleni Kefalopoulou \/ Image Courtesy of Eleni Kefalopoulou<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Things started to change in the final decades of the 20th century, thanks to innovators like Manolis and Sotiris <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lyrarakis.com\/en\/home\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Lyrarakis<\/a>. In 1996, they released varietal wines made from Dafni and Plyto, two Cretan varieties that had previously been blended into Vins de Crete and might have otherwise gone extinct.<\/p>\n<p>Another forward-thinking Cretan winemaker, Nikos <a href=\"https:\/\/douloufakis.wine\/el\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Douloufakis<\/a>, studied oenology in Alba, Italy, and then introduced local grapes <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/culture\/wine\/best-greek-wines-varieties-assyrtiko\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Liatiko<\/a> and Vidiano to his family winery in 1993.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe makes exceptional wines,\u201d says Kamal Kouiri, the general manager and wine director of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.molyvos.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Molyvos<\/a>, a Manhattan restaurant with some 750 Greek wines in its cellar. \u201cHe understands how Cretan grape varieties grow, and knows how to make consumers love these wines.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Yannis <a href=\"https:\/\/domaine-economou.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Economou<\/a> was similarly ground-breaking. After studying in Alba and working in Germany and France, he planted indigenous and international varieties in a remote corner of eastern Crete in the mid-90s. Economou\u2019s range includes blends of old-vine Liatiko and Mandilari, two local red wine grapes, and bottles are often released after being aged anywhere from 10 to 15 years. (Aged wines are priced accordingly, typically starting at $60.)<\/p>\n<p>\u201cEconomou is a true wine artist,\u201d says Kefalopoulou. \u201cHis way of thinking and producing wines reminds me of Eric Rodez in Champagne. He is a master blender and every wine of his is unique.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-spacer\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/div>\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>You May Also Like: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/culture\/wine\/best-greek-wines-varieties-assyrtiko\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">The Ancient Greek Varieties Making Thoroughly Modern Wines<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-spacer\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/div>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-161118\" src=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1024x683.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-140x92.jpg 140w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-180x120.jpg 180w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-830x553.jpg 830w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-350x233.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-630x420.jpg 630w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-384x256.jpg 384w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-620x413.jpg 620w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-580x387.jpg 580w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-415x276.jpg 415w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280-1280x853.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_Alexandra_Manousakis_INSET_-Viki_Tsatsaba_1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" alt=\"Alexandra Manousakis\" width=\"840\" height=\"560\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Alexandra Manousakis \/ Image Courtesy of Viki Tsatsaba<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Millennial Modernization<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>In the 21st century, a fleet of mostly millennial winemakers built on these advancements to further revolutionize Cretan wine. They studied oenology and viticulture everywhere from France and Italy to California, and then took the reins of family estates to modernize plots and processes in Crete\u2019s diverse soils and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/basics\/drinks-terms-defined\/microclimate-wine-definition\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">microclimates<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Manousakis, who was born and raised in Washington, D.C., was among them. \u201cTen or 12 years ago, our generation was coming back and applying some very crucial winemaking techniques to wineries all over Crete,\u201d she says. \u201cThat started this whole new wave of winemaking and experimentation.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>A trade organization, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Wines of Crete<\/a>, launched in 2006 and was similarly vital, Manousakis says. \u201cThat really created a bond and network for the wineries. It\u2019s unheard of in Greece for competitors to come together and push for the greater good for everyone\u2026 All the wineries get along, for the most part.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It certainly seems that way. When industry out-of-towners visit the island, Cretan winemakers co-host tastings at each other\u2019s properties and tag-team varietal education. As international sommeliers and journalists take their first sips of Vidiano, young Cretan wine professionals share cigarettes and ask after each other\u2019s families and harvests.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI love what the new generation in Crete is doing,\u201d says Kouiri. \u201cThey\u2019re sitting at one table, and they\u2019re thinking about Crete before they\u2019re thinking about themselves.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a savvy approach. If two or three <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/ratings\/wine-ratings\/bordeaux-wine\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bordeaux domains<\/a> started exporting lackluster wine next year, it might hurt their sales but wouldn\u2019t denigrate the reputation of the entire region. There are simply too many years of global goodwill toward Bordeaux for a few bad seeds to spoil the market. Crete, on the other hand, is a relative newcomer to the modern global wine industry. Few international buyers or collectors are familiar with varieties like Vidiano or Liatiko, and you only get one chance to make a first impression.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-161115\" src=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-1024x684.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-1024x684.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-1200x801.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-180x120.jpg 180w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-830x554.jpg 830w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-350x234.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-630x421.jpg 630w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-383x256.jpg 383w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-620x414.jpg 620w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-580x387.jpg 580w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-413x276.jpg 413w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280-1280x855.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/10_23_PDO_Dafnes_INSET_Wines_of_Crete_1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" alt=\"PDO Dafnes\" width=\"1024\" height=\"684\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">PDO Dafnes \/ Image Courtesy of Wines of Crete<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Aging Gracefully<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Importantly, the wines are good. Sure, not all of the bottles from Crete are perfect\u2014what region could make that claim?\u2014but a baseline level of quality has been established and standouts are emerging.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe wines are coming into their own,\u201d says Kouiri. \u201cCrete has an identity, which is one of the hardest things to do. Identity is three things: terroir, grape variety and winemaking. When you have an identity, then you\u2019re able to compete worldwide.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>He\u2019s especially enthusiastic about Cretan Vidiano. Gone are the days of masking its fresh stone fruit and savory white pepper flavors in heavy oak. Modern iterations from Lyrarakis, Douloufakis and Idaia are made in stainless steel, while others experiment with cement and amphora.<\/p>\n<p>These wines age beautifully. With as little as two to four years of bottle age, \u201cVidiano develops this silky, rich texture\u2026 it becomes an even more serious wine,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p>Kefalopoulou remains impressed by Lyrarkis\u2019s and Douloufakis\u2019s wines, and notes how the <a href=\"https:\/\/scalareaestate.gr\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Scalarea<\/a> estate near the Cretan city of Heraklion works with Greece\u2019s Boutari label to make \u201ca top-ranking blend of Kotsifali and Syrah that can age for years.\u201d She also champions Cretan Louliatiko, a dessert wine made from sun-dried <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/varietals\/greek-red\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Liatiko<\/a> grapes, and Ampelourgein Winery\u2019s high-altitude p\u00e9t-nats.<\/p>\n<p>All are thoroughly modern wines, but, like everything in Crete, they\u2019re inseparable from centuries of history. It\u2019s not always easy, having such deep-rooted heritage. But it\u2019s never boring, either.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThat\u2019s the beautiful thing about wine,\u201d says Kouiri. \u201cIt\u2019s a continuing art. It doesn\u2019t end, it evolves.\u201d And so does Crete.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.wineenthusiast.com\/ratings\/wine-ratings\/best-crete-wines\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Source: Wine Enthusiast By Emily Saladino Images Courtesy of Viki Tsatsaba, Eleni Kefalopoulou, Paul Johnson &nbsp; When you buy something through our link, we may earn a small commission. Wine Enthusiast does not accept money for editorial wine reviews. Read more about our policy. In 2007, when Alexandra Manousakis left a corporate job in New [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[94,96,92],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5424","post","type-post","status-publish","hentry","category-articles-for-the-cretan-wine","category-foreign-sources","category-press-reviews"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>In Crete, Thoroughly Modern Wines Are Steeped in History. 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