{"id":5401,"date":"2023-12-13T17:15:14","date_gmt":"2023-12-13T15:15:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/?p=5401"},"modified":"2023-12-13T17:15:35","modified_gmt":"2023-12-13T15:15:35","slug":"8-lesser-known-greek-grapes-on-the-rise","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/press-reviews\/8-lesser-known-greek-grapes-on-the-rise\/","title":{"rendered":"8 Lesser-Known Greek Grapes on the Rise"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/8-lesser-known-greek-grapes-on-the-rise\/?utm_campaign=SevenFifty%20Daily%20Weekly%20Dispatch&amp;utm_medium=email&amp;_hsmi=279090842&amp;utm_content=279091859&amp;utm_source=hs_email&amp;fbclid=IwAR0Vk4FEKP9Xs-g-AnFGF-dlYEXgCV9OtSq-gLDkjmsIFiajnmiGk7GkYGY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Source<\/a><\/p>\n<header>\n<div class=\"narrow\">\n<p>Across Greece, indigenous grape varieties are shedding old associations and offering a new, expanding view of Greek wine<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure><a href=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-post-image\" src=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-768x433.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-1536x866.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-335x189.jpg 335w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-44x25.jpg 44w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-133x75.jpg 133w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-177x100.jpg 177w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-27x15.jpg 27w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-53x30.jpg 53w\" alt=\"A labeled row of vines in a vineyard\" width=\"768\" height=\"433\" \/> <\/a><figcaption>Many U.S. buyers are familiar with a handful of Greece\u2019s indigenous grapes, but there are many more to be discovered. Photo courtesy of Jim Clarke.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"narrow\">\n<div class=\"entry-content\">\n<p>Greece\u2019s borders encompass 6,000 islands, the mainland, and a major peninsula, and the latter two are largely defined by rugged, mountainous terrain. Given this unique and varied geography, it\u2019s no wonder that Greece lays claim to over <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofgreece.org\/meet-the-grapes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">300 indigenous grape varieties<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>For many, getting a handle on Greek grapes can be a challenge, but that hasn\u2019t slowed down the category; in 2022, Greek imports were up 24 percent according to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gfawine.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Gomberg, Fredrikson &amp; Associates<\/a>. While Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko, and Xinomavro have led the way on U.S. wine lists, they\u2019re only the tip of the iceberg, and the rest of Greece\u2019s indigenous grapes are well worth exploring.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe knew from our early efforts to introduce quality Greek wine into the mainstream that our indigenous grapes were a great marketing advantage, and a way to differentiate ourselves from the usual French varieties that many of the regions were producing,\u201d says Sofia Perpera of the <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofgreece.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Greek Wine Federation<\/a>. \u201cAt first we tried to keep it simple and focus on four major Greek varieties, but now that Greek wine has become its own category, the market is demanding different varieties.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Evan Turner, the wine director at <a href=\"https:\/\/krasiboston.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Krasi<\/a> in Boston, is particularly impressed by Greece\u2019s white varieties. \u201cThis gets me into trouble with my somm friends, but I make the argument that Greece might be the best white wine-producing country in the world when you take into account affability to food, ageability, diversity of flavor, and quality for price point.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But that\u2019s not to discount the country\u2019s reds; Turner says Greek reds are rarely rich or opulent, but the country\u2019s more austere reds can often be very food-friendly. Here are several emerging grape varieties, both white and red, that wine professionals should have on their radar.<\/p>\n<h2><b>Vidiano: Crete\u2019s Leading White Grape<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>As the largest of the Greek islands, <a href=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/inside-the-evolution-of-cretes-wine-industry\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Crete<\/a> is home to several of the country\u2019s indigenous varieties. \u201cI turn to Crete again and again when it comes to grape varieties,\u201d says Turner. Vidiano has earned a place as the island\u2019s leading white grape, emerging from obscurity to spread from its home in Rethymno, on the west end of the island, across Crete and to some of the other Aegean islands and to the Greek mainland. An earlier era that favored high yields did it no favors, but when the vines are restrained by planting at higher altitudes or at cooler sites, Vidiano can produce wines with immense textural interest. It retains its acidity even at higher alcohols, opening the door to a combination of weight and freshness that many grape varieties would struggle to match.<\/p>\n<h2><b>Liatiko: A Savory Red from the Cretan Mountains<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>\u201cLiatiko is a forgotten grape variety of Crete that\u2019s really doing very well right now,\u201d says Kamal Kouiri, the general manager and wine director at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.molyvos.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Molyvos<\/a> in New York City. \u201cThey\u2019ve been able to find ungrafted, old-vine vineyards in the mountains. It gives you a lot of texture, and a lot of flavors and complexity in the wines.\u201d Liatiko tends to make a pale wine, prone to oxidation, and in the past producers might have worked the grape too hard to get a deeper color from the grape. Kouiri says the best examples today are unoaked and capture the freshness of the variety, resulting in wines that remind him of cru Beaujolais from Fleurie. \u201cYou get the savory elements along with the fruit; I love that combination.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<h2><b>Kotsifali and Mandilaria: Complimentary Cretan Reds<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>Crete is an island of extremes, with crystal blue waters and mountains high enough to be home to Europe\u2019s southernmost ski resorts. So it seems appropriate that two of its primary red grapes are opposite in character, but complement each other just as well. Kotsifali is intensely aromatic and prone to high alcohol, but soft in tannins and acidity; Mandilaria, on the other hand, is deeply colored, acidic, enthusiastically tannic, and low in alcohol, struggling to reach 12.5% ABV in many vintages. Two PDOs in the center of Crete, Peza and Archanes, cater to this blend. Elsewhere on Crete, Kotsifali has explored other relationships, and producers have found it works well with a more recent arrival, Syrah. Mandilaria has sought new partners on other islands, proving itself in blends with Mavrotragano on Santorini and with the white grape Monemvasia on Paros.<\/p>\n<h2><b>Robola: An Exciting White from Cephalonia<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>On the far side of the Peloponnese, Cephalonia, an island in the Ionian Sea, has presented Greece with two grape varieties of note: Robola and Mavrodaphne. The former, a white grape, was long thought to be related to the Friuli\u2019s Ribolla Gialla, perhaps brought to or from the island by Venetian traders, but that turned out not to be the case. Like Vidiano, its vigor must be restrained to get a concentrated wine, but Turner says the results are \u201cstunning, especially if you are a fan of Chablis or Sancerre. The wines are minerally driven, with a vein of lemony citrus notes. I\u2019m really excited about this grape.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_38156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-38156\" src=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420.jpg\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2520px) 100vw, 2520px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420.jpg 2520w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-1536x866.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-335x189.jpg 335w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-44x25.jpg 44w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-133x75.jpg 133w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-177x100.jpg 177w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-27x15.jpg 27w, https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_Kamal-Kouiri_2520x1420-53x30.jpg 53w\" alt=\"Headshot of Kamal Kouiri, general manager and wine director at Molyvos\" width=\"2520\" height=\"1420\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kamal Kouiri, the general manager and wine director at Molyvos, is enjoying the renaissance of Liatiko, a Cretan variety with complex flavors akin to cru Beaujolais. Photo courtesy of Kamal Kouiri.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2><b>Mavrodaphne: A Western Greek Red With a Fortified Past<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>It\u2019s rare to see a dry Mavrodaphne labeled as a varietal wine, as two fortified wine PDOs have co-opted the name, Mavrodaphne of Patras and Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia. But producers have embraced the grape for dry red wines as well. \u201cThey started making dry Mavrodaphne wines about 10 years ago,\u201d says Kouiri. While early examples of these new, dry wines could be rustic, he says that high-elevation vineyards with little water have proven key to getting the best expression out of the grape. \u201cYou\u2019re going to see a beautiful, deep color, and I love the texture. It gives you a lot of blueberry, lavender, and black fruits, and if you extract a bit more it can range into leather, sage, and peppermint.\u201d These new, unfortified examples offer rich fruit on the nose with a dry palate\u2014a combination sometimes compared to drier examples of Amarone, though Mavrodaphne producers do not raisinate their grapes to get that effect.<\/p>\n<h2><b>Malagousia: An Aromatic White from Western Greece<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>Most of Mavrodaphne\u2019s vineyards today are on the mainland, just north of Cephalonia, an area that\u2019s also the homeland of Malagousia. One of the first Greek varieties to be rescued from believed extinction back in the 1970s, it\u2019s now widely planted on both the mainland and the islands. Unlike Vidiano and Robola, it\u2019s an aromatic variety, combining some of the green notes Sauvignon Blanc drinkers will find familiar with more floral touches found in some Muscat varieties. Most producers capture that generous nose through vinification in stainless steel, but some have successfully indulged in a fuller-bodied approach incorporating barrel aging.<\/p>\n<h2><b>Savatiano: Athens\u2019s Own White<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>If there\u2019s a grape that encapsulates the changing reputation of Greece\u2019s wines, it\u2019s Savatiano. It\u2019s most commonly found in Attica, the area around Athens, Greece\u2019s modern capital, and for many years it was primarily used for making Retsina, a wine aromatized with pine resin that was long considered little more than a novelty of Greek tavernas. As recently as the 1980s, Retsina was the first thing to come to mind when someone mentioned Greek wine. Modern Savatiano has, by and large, shed its resinous past, though there are some modern, refined examples of Retsina worth exploring. Without the pine resin, Savatiano can show its true colors, yielding a medium-bodied, round wine with some grassy notes and touches of yellow fruit. Like its cousins scattered across the country, it\u2019s flexible at the table, and there\u2019s no reason any of them shouldn\u2019t appear alongside a variety of dishes beyond the classics of the taverna.<\/p>\n<p><b><i>Jim Clarke<\/i><\/b><i> writes about wine, beer, and spirits for trade and consumer publications, including <\/i>Beverage Media<i>, <\/i>Fortune<i>, and <\/i>World of Fine Wine<i>. He is a sommelier and the U.S. marketing manager for Wines of South Africa. <\/i><\/p>\n<div class=\"entry-content\">\n<hr class=\"full-width\" \/>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Source Across Greece, indigenous grape varieties are shedding old associations and offering a new, expanding view of Greek wine &nbsp; Many U.S. buyers are familiar with a handful of Greece\u2019s indigenous grapes, but there are many more to be discovered. Photo courtesy of Jim Clarke. Greece\u2019s borders encompass 6,000 islands, the mainland, and a major [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[92],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5401","post","type-post","status-publish","hentry","category-press-reviews"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>8 Lesser-Known Greek Grapes on the Rise | Wines of Crete<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/press-reviews\/8-lesser-known-greek-grapes-on-the-rise\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"8 Lesser-Known Greek Grapes on the Rise | Wines of Crete\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Source Across Greece, indigenous grape varieties are shedding old associations and offering a new, expanding view of Greek wine &nbsp; Many U.S. buyers are familiar with a handful of Greece\u2019s indigenous grapes, but there are many more to be discovered. 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Photo courtesy of Jim Clarke. Greece\u2019s borders encompass 6,000 islands, the mainland, and a major [&hellip;]","og_url":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/press-reviews\/8-lesser-known-greek-grapes-on-the-rise\/","og_site_name":"Wines of Crete","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Wines-of-Crete\/301108403247251","article_published_time":"2023-12-13T15:15:14+00:00","article_modified_time":"2023-12-13T15:15:35+00:00","og_image":[{"url":"https:\/\/daily.sevenfifty.com\/app\/uploads\/2023\/10\/SFD-Little-Known-Greek-Grapes-on-the-Rise_A-row-of-Vidiano_CO_Jim_Clarke_Hero_2520x1420-768x433.jpg","type":"","width":"","height":""}],"author":"Site Manager","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_creator":"@winesofcrete","twitter_site":"@winesofcrete","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Site Manager","Est. reading time":"7 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