{"id":5304,"date":"2023-09-11T09:11:47","date_gmt":"2023-09-11T06:11:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/?p=5304"},"modified":"2023-09-11T09:12:57","modified_gmt":"2023-09-11T06:12:57","slug":"article-inside-the-evolution-of-cretes-wine-industry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/news\/article-inside-the-evolution-of-cretes-wine-industry\/","title":{"rendered":"Article: Inside the Evolution of Crete\u2019s Wine Industry"},"content":{"rendered":"

Source: Seven Fifty Daily<\/a><\/p>\n

written by <\/span>Pamela Vachon<\/a><\/p>\n

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\"The <\/a>
The next generation of Crete\u2019s winemakers is rediscovering the value of the island\u2019s native grapes. Photo courtesy of Wines of Crete.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/header>\n
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The fact that evidence of winemaking has been found on Crete dating to the Bronze Age makes it one of Europe\u2019s oldest known wine regions, and would seem to put it squarely out of the \u201cemerging\u201d category. However, due to a convergence of political and environmental factors, plus a shifting tourism landscape, the modern era of Cretan winemaking is still effectively in its infancy.<\/p>\n

Crete currently accounts for over 10 percent of the wine produced in Greece, from 11 native varieties and seven PDOs, but most of the island industry\u2019s growth has taken place only in the past 20 years. \u201cA combination of ancient heritage and modern exploration makes Crete\u2019s wine scene both rooted in history, and at the beginning of a new era,\u201d says Nikos Douloufakis, the owner and enologist of Douloufakis Winery<\/a>.<\/p>\n

A Late Phylloxera Outbreak<\/b><\/h2>\n

Of singular importance to this renaissance is that phylloxera came to Crete as late as 1977\u2014well over a century after it plagued Europe\u2019s mainland\u2014wiping out Crete\u2019s vineyards at a time when European wines were rising in popularity worldwide. While devastating to the agricultural industry of Greece\u2019s largest island, this outbreak, timed with the end of Greek dictatorship, plus the growth of post-World War II tourism across Europe, created an opportunity for young, ambitious winemakers in Crete.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was a fresh start,\u201d says Afshin Molavi, the owner of Manousakis Winery<\/a>, of the blank-slating that was arguably necessary to push Crete\u2019s wine industry into unfamiliar territory, and eventually onto an international stage.<\/p>\n

Prior to phylloxera, winemaking was common across Crete, with many rural citizens making their own. \u201cWine was not a luxury,\u201d says Giorgios Mastrakoulis, the events coordinator of Wines of Crete<\/a>, \u201cand winemaking was just part of an average person\u2019s year,\u201d utilizing communal wine presses located in village centers. Commercially made wine in Crete was therefore of little value to local consumers, and was dominated by a few large co-ops, who largely made wine in bulk, and very little bottled.<\/p>\n

What\u2019s more, viticulture and vinification practices favored quantity over quality. According to Douloufakis, \u201cVineyards were planted with a mix of native grape varieties in what was known as logado<\/i>, meaning mixed local varieties.\u201d<\/p>\n

This changed when nearly 20,000 acres of vineyards were replanted between 1988 and 1992. Based largely on input from European enologists, the majority of these vineyards were planted with international varieties rather than native grapes. \u201cThe first people to try to renovate the vineyards didn\u2019t know the value of the Cretan varieties,\u201d says Maria Titaki, the co-owner and enologist of Titakis Wines<\/a>, one of the oldest wineries in Crete. Likewise, Cretan producers also had little to no experience with monocultural vineyards or varietal wines, and weren\u2019t aware of their native grapes\u2019 individual characteristics.<\/p>\n

Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Syrah therefore became some of Crete\u2019s most important grapes during its agricultural reconstruction. Not only did these international grapes succeed in Crete\u2019s climate, there was also an assumption that international varieties would have a greater appeal both to Crete\u2019s visitors, and to Crete\u2019s local population, who likewise had no familiarity with or particular esteem for Crete\u2019s native grapes as individual wines. \u201cFor quite a long time, there was an idea that something foreign would automatically be something better,\u201d says Mastrakoulis.<\/p>\n

\"A
After a history of political and environmental challenges, Crete is experiencing wine industry growth. Photo courtesy of Manousaki\u2019s Winery.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Modern Era of Cretan Wine<\/b><\/h2>\n

Today, however, the Cretan wine landscape is driven by indigenous varieties like Vilana, Vidiano, and Liatiko, with young, ambitious producers that are merging tradition and innovation toward the promotion of the region and its capabilities. Whereas Crete used to have only a few large cooperative wineries, the industry has grown to 38 wineries in 2023, mostly boutique in nature, more than doubling itself in the past 15 years. A mixture of ambition, data, and a new wave of tourism rooted in authenticity over familiarity all helped to bring about the restoration of Crete\u2019s native grapes, and usher in Crete\u2019s modern winemaking era.<\/p>\n

To begin, a rising interest in enology followed the reconstruction of the vineyards; Titaki and Douloufakis were among those who studied abroad to bring elevated viticulture and vinification techniques back to Crete. With that, \u201cVineyards started to be cultivated based on microclimate data and scientific vine management techniques,\u201d says Douloufakis, all of which pointed toward the native varieties. The rising popularity internationally of Greek grapes from other regions also contributed.\u00a0 \u201cBecause of the interest in Assyrtiko [from Santorini], and then suddenly seeing Nemea getting famous, then Naoussa, there\u2019s a feeling we should also look in our own backyard,\u201d says Molavi.<\/p>\n

The reintroduction of Cretan varieties took place as early as the 1990s, with most wineries planting or grafting in earnest by the early to mid 2000s, along with the establishment of several Cretan PDOs. Early wines made with native grapes during this time typically appeared in blends with international varieties to aid in their acceptance with visitors and locals alike: \u201cPeople didn\u2019t know exactly what to trust from the Cretan varieties,\u201d says Titaki. \u201cIf you also have a common variety in the glass it\u2019s easier to make them try it.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Rows
Once planted and vinified as field blends, local Cretan varieties like Vilana are now being embraced by winemakers and tourists alike. Photo courtesy of Titakis Wines.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the last decade, however, tourism has become a major factor in Crete\u2019s success with its native grapes, in a turnabout from the assumption that visitors would primarily prefer familiar ones. Authenticity is at the forefront of visitors\u2019 preferences in recent years, and Cretan winemakers have sought to capitalize on that. Most wineries on Crete now offer tasting rooms, many of which are still small enough to have the winemakers themselves on hand to speak about their wines. \u201cEveryone\u2019s coming now saying they just want the native varieties,\u201d says Molavi.<\/p>\n

Authenticity is also a major factor in Crete\u2019s ability to export wines, a practice which has been growing steadily over the past several years, with sales of Cretan wines to the U.S. almost quadrupling over the past 10 years. \u201cCrete would never be able to focus on Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, and compete with other established winemaking countries,\u201d says Mastrakoulis. \u201cThere\u2019s a realization that in order to be able to export our wine we needed to have a product that was different and that it had its own identity.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cIn a competitive global wine market, regions that offer distinctive native varietals [sic] <\/i>such as Crete can stand out from the crowd,\u201d adds Douloufakis. \u201cThose who produce wines from unique and lesser-known grapes can find a niche market of consumers looking for something different.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Source: Seven Fifty Daily written by Pamela Vachon       The next generation of Crete\u2019s winemakers is rediscovering the value of the island\u2019s native grapes. Photo courtesy of Wines of Crete. The fact that evidence of winemaking has been found on Crete dating to the Bronze Age makes it one of Europe\u2019s oldest known […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":5089,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[94,77],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5304","post","type-post","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-articles-for-the-cretan-wine","category-news"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nArticle: Inside the Evolution of Crete\u2019s Wine Industry | Wines of Crete<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/news\/article-inside-the-evolution-of-cretes-wine-industry\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Article: Inside the Evolution of Crete\u2019s Wine Industry | Wines of Crete\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Source: Seven Fifty Daily written by Pamela Vachon       The next generation of Crete\u2019s winemakers is rediscovering the value of the island\u2019s native grapes. 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