{"id":2434,"date":"2018-01-05T12:00:03","date_gmt":"2018-01-05T10:00:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/news\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\/"},"modified":"2021-08-23T14:56:33","modified_gmt":"2021-08-23T11:56:33","slug":"to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/news\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\/","title":{"rendered":"Wines of Crete in the Wine Enthusiast magazine!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Source: Wine Enthusiast<\/a><\/p>\n

By Susan Kostrzewa
\nThe Winemakers Reinventing Crete\u2019s Wine Scene
\nCrete has one of the world’s oldest wine cultures. Now, a new generation is pushing traditions forward with terroir-driven and small-production bottlings.
\nBy Susan Kostrzewa<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

From left to right: Alexandra Manousakis of Manousakis Winery; Emmanouela Paterianaki of Domaine Paterianakis; Nikos Douloufakis of Douloufakis Winery; Maria Tamiolaki of Rhous Winery; Nicky Paterianaki of Domaine Paterianakis; Afshin Molavi of Manousakis Winery; Dmitris Mansolas of Rhous Winery \/ Photo by Effie Paroutsa<\/p>\n

Calling the island of Crete<\/a> an \u201cemerging\u201d force for wine is a bit of a misnomer.<\/p>\n

One of the world\u2019s oldest winemaking regions, this 3,200-square-mile slab of paradise has a vinous culture that dates back to the fourth millennium B.C. Minoans began exporting red and white wines throughout the ancient world in 3000 B.C.\u2014first to the Egyptians, then later to Romans, Venetians and beyond.<\/p>\n

But political and cultural disruption impeded evolution. Ottoman takeover from the 17th to 19th century ground the winemaking momentum to a halt, and Greek annexation in 1913 threw the region into tumult, meaning serious wine production and promotion was shelved.<\/p>\n

Most commercial viniculture didn\u2019t resurface until the 1980s and \u201990s, when Crete became a powerhouse producer of (largely bulk) wines, with international variety plantings at the forefront.<\/p>\n

Today, the island is fast getting its groove back, with a growing interest in the distinctive, terroir-driven wines that thrive here. Though the island still accounts for an impressive 12% of Greece\u2019s total wine production, Crete\u2019s focus has moved to smaller production, high-quality indigenous varieties, says Heraklion-based oenologist Manolis Stafilakis. That shift is largely due to a new, younger force on the winemaking scene.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn the last 20 years, Crete has been actively exploring and planting vineyards to new varieties as well as indigenous varieties that were forgotten in abandoned vineyards,\u201d he says. \u201cGlobalization has brought new technology, and the younger, traveling generation has brought the know-how. We\u2019re definitely in an exciting discovery phase.\u201d<\/p>\n

Meet the modern face of Cretan wine.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Emmanouela Paterianaki (left) and Nicky Paterianaki (right) of Domaine Paterianakis \/ Photo by Effie Paroutsa<\/p>\n

Domaine Paterianakis<\/p>\n

Emmanouela Paterianaki, Enologist & Winery Manager<\/p>\n

Nicky Paterianaki,Director of Marketing & Sales<\/p>\n

\u201cRestless\u201d is the word Emmanouela Paterianaki uses to describe the island\u2019s next-generation wine influencers, and she\u2019s certainly a testament to that drive. Working with her sister, Nicky, her passion for biodynamic practices and indigenous authenticity has put the family\u2019s boutique winery at the Cretan wine forefront but, she says, she\u2019s just part of the wave currently fueling the industry there.<\/p>\n

\u201c[As a group,] we\u2019ve revived long-lost grape varieties, tried new blends, replanted our vineyards and modernized our process with state-of-the-art equipment,\u201d she explains. \u201cWe\u2019ve also pushed wine routes so that visitors can visit new or renovated wineries with an open-door philosophy.\u201d<\/p>\n

Domaine Paterianakis<\/a> was founded in Peza by grandfather Manolis some 50 years ago and revolutionized by father Georgios, an engineer and champion of organic wine, in the \u201990s. The winery committed to biodynamic practices at a time when most producers on the island turned away from what the sisters describe as a \u201cpure\u201d approach. Today, it specializes in indigenous and rare grape varieties like Moschato Spinas, Plyto, Kotsifali and Assyrtiko, with \u201cholistic winemaking\u201d still at the core of the business.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe love and care for each wine we make\u201d says Emmanouela, who studied oenology at the University of Athens and consulted for lauded Greek wineries before returning to the family business. \u201cWe cultivate our vineyards with respect to our ecosystem using a blend of modern winemaking and traditional secrets passed from our forefathers. This helps generate health and fertility in the vineyard.\u201d<\/p>\n

That philosophy results in wines with a \u201cstrong personality,\u201d explains Nicky, who studied chemical engineering at the University of Athens and oversees chemical consultation at the winery in addition to her other roles. \u201cWe want all of the peculiarities of our local terroir and harvest to be reflected in our wines, and for the varieties\u2019 authentic characteristics to unfold without interference.\u201d<\/p>\n

Both agree that connecting Cretan wine to tourism is essential for the future. \u201cThe next years are promising for Crete because so many joint efforts to connect our tradition, cuisine and culture are taking place,\u201d says Emmanouela. \u201cWine is a key player in that plan.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Maria Tamiolaki and Dmitris Mansolas of Rhous Winery \/ Photo by Effie Paroutsa<\/p>\n

Rhous Winery<\/p>\n

Maria Tamiolaki, Owner, Winemaker & Sales Manager<\/p>\n

Dmitris Mansolas, Owner, Winemaker & Production Manager<\/p>\n

When husband-and-wife winemaking team Maria Tamiolaki and Dmitiris Mansolas took over the Peza-based Tamiolakis Winery in 2012\u2014later rebranding it as Rhous, the Greek word for flow, or the progression of things\u2014they were publicizing a philosophy once elusive to many area winemakers: evolution without eradication of tradition.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe believe in tradition on one side,\u201d says Tamiolaki, a fourth generation winemaker, \u201cand a contemporary and international approach on the other. We produce authentic local wines but with a modernism and mainstream sensibility.\u201d<\/p>\n

The couple met in Bordeaux, where both were pursuing oenology degrees, and spent a decade working for top producers (she for Ch\u00e2teau Haut-Brion and Ch\u00e2teau Malartic-Lagravi\u00e8re in France, he for Greek producers including Ktima Kir-Yianni and the Wine Art Estate) before taking the helm of their current endeavor. Today, the 50,000-bottle operation specializes in red, white and ros\u00e9 blends of local and international varieties like Thrapsathiri, Kotsifali, Merlot and Chardonnay, among others.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have a great respect for the rich population of indigenous Cretan grapes, but I\u2019m convinced the potential of these grapes is unknown territory, and that\u2019s what we\u2019re searching for,\u201d says Mansolas, who calls sustainable agriculture an \u201cally\u201d in their quest. \u201cWe\u2019re not interested in producing predetermined styles of wine or intense oenological intervention. We do apply innovations, though, such as aging Mandalaria in cement eggs instead of oak, if it can help the grape\u2019s DNA to be better expressed.\u201d<\/p>\n

The couple\u2019s modernism is reflected in the styles they produce. \u201cBlending is our hallmark,\u201d says Tamiolaki, referencing the Skipper White, a combination of Vidiano and Plyto, a native Cretan grape. \u201cWe love rediscovering old indigenous varieties and bringing out their qualities through the complexity of blending.\u201d<\/p>\n

Despite the obvious expertise both bring to the table, they\u2019re in agreement that the raw material is key to their success.<\/p>\n

\u201cAll you need here is to be fueled by passion,\u201d says Mansolas. \u201cThe rest is given in abundance from the enormous diversity of the Cretan landscape.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Afshin Molavi and Alexandra Manousakis of Manousakis Winery \/ Photo by Effie Paroutsa<\/p>\n

Manousakis Winery<\/p>\n

Afshin Molavi, Owner & Winery Manager<\/p>\n

Alexandra Manousakis, Owner & Winery Manager<\/p>\n

Listening to the circuitous route that led husband-and-wife team Manousakis and Molavi to running one of Crete\u2019s most important wineries\u2013Manousakis Winery<\/a>\u2013is akin to reading Homer\u2019s The Odyssey. Dramatic twists and turns unfold like an addictive page turner, especially when told by the vibrant and wise-cracking couple over a few glasses of wine.<\/p>\n

Manousakis was born and raised in Washington, D.C., attended New York University to study art, Hellenic studies and business, then dug into a career at a Manhattan-based real estate marketing and sales company. Sweden-born Molavi studied aeronautical engineering and culinary science (\u201cdining room philosophy and sommelier studies\u201d) before heading to Athens to intern at, and later help open, several area restaurants.<\/p>\n

\u201cI moved to Crete in 2007 expecting to be back in New York by 2010,\u201d laughs Manousakis, who met Molavi in 2009, prompting his move to the island. \u201cMy father, Theodore, is from Crete and established a winery here in 1993, and we were producing 35,000 bottles at that point with plans to build a new winery. He offered me a job overseeing the construction and I fell in love. Ten years later and I\u2019m still in Crete.\u201d<\/p>\n

The winery\u2019s pedigree has always been serious. During the \u201990s, Theodore brought in big guns like French winemaker Pascal Marchand, to help develop Rh\u00f4ne varieties. In recent years, the couple has also doubled down on local varieties like Romeiko, Muscat of Spina and Assyrtiko, representing a new wave of innovators who Manousakis says are \u201cwilling to take risks that previous generations were not comfortable making.\u201d<\/p>\n

The winery now produces over 100,000 bottles annually, exporting to 10 countries worldwide and attracting some 40,000 people to the tasting room each year. Though they employ a global perspective and staunch quality control (stating that \u201cIf we\u2019re not happy with the final product, it does not get released\u201d), the region continues to challenge even their most nimble efforts.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe terrain keeps you on your toes and offers endless possibilities,\u201d says Manousakis. \u201cCrete is just beginning to show its potential.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nikos Douloufakis of Douloufakis Winery \/ Photo by Effie Paroutsa<\/p>\n

Douloufakis Winery<\/p>\n

Nikos Douloufakis, Owner & Winemaker<\/p>\n

Ask third-generation winemaker Nikos Douloufakis about the latest projects at his family\u2019s namesake winery<\/a> in Dafnes, and he\u2019s quick to geek out over the wines he\u2019s macerating in Greek amphorae or aging in 1.5- and 3-ton wooden barrels, the latter of which his grandfather did before him.<\/p>\n

But make no mistake about where this Piedmont-educated viticulturalist\u2019s sensibilities lie when it comes to progress. Over the past decade, he\u2019s embarked on a deep dive into the revival of Vidiano, a nearly-extinct Cretan white variety, working with previously unknown vinifications of the grape to help put it back on the global map.<\/p>\n

Douloufakis stresses that this drive for change is a family trait; his grandfather was at the forefront of progress back in the 1930s, at a time when the industry was faced with serious challenges. \u201cI\u2019m following the family tradition because, much like my grandfather, I\u2019m passionate about innovation,\u201d he says. \u201cBy combining traditional and modern techniques on my work, I\u2019m honoring his legacy.\u201d<\/p>\n

The 300,000 bottle winery also specializes in \u201cstrong reds and fruity whites\u201d from locally grown grapes like Vilana, Malvasia, Mandilari, Liatiko and Kostifali, as well as producing international varieties like Chardonnay and Syrah. A sparkling Vidiano was recently released, as well.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy key initiative is to develop and push forth the Cretan indigenous varieties,\u201d Douloufakis explains. \u201cBy using cutting-edge equipment and employing the latest vineyard management techniques, we\u2019re able to produce wines of a higher quality than in past.\u201d<\/p>\n

This increased quality, he hopes, will resonate on the foreign market, another focus of his. The wines are currently exported to the U.S. and Canada, and soon, Hong Kong and Japan.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis area has been hospitable to viticulture since antiquity,\u201d he says. \u201cWe\u2019re just adding a modern twist to an ancient practice.\u201d<\/p>\n

Published on January 4, 2018
\nTopics: Greek Wines<\/a><\/p>\n

About the Author
\nSusan Kostrzewa
\n@suskostrzewa<\/a>
\nExecutive Editor<\/p>\n

Reviews wines from Greece and Cyprus.<\/p>\n

Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa joined Wine Enthusiast in 2006, when she moved from Sonoma, California, to Manhattan. Kostrzewa has written and edited wine, food and travel stories for the past 14 years, and oversees all editorial direction of Wine Enthusiast Magazine and WineMag.com, in addition to the tasting programs. Kostrzewa co-edited the Wine Enthusiast Wine & Food Pairings book and has co-authored numerous books on wine and travel in her career. Email: skostrze@wineenthusiast.net<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Source: Wine Enthusiast By Susan Kostrzewa The Winemakers Reinventing Crete\u2019s Wine Scene Crete has one of the world’s oldest wine cultures. Now, a new generation is pushing traditions forward with terroir-driven and small-production bottlings. By Susan Kostrzewa From left to right: Alexandra Manousakis of Manousakis Winery; Emmanouela Paterianaki of Domaine Paterianakis; Nikos Douloufakis of Douloufakis […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[77],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2434","post","type-post","status-publish","hentry","category-news"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWines of Crete in the Wine Enthusiast magazine! | Wines of Crete<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/news\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Wines of Crete in the Wine Enthusiast magazine! | Wines of Crete\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Source: Wine Enthusiast By Susan Kostrzewa The Winemakers Reinventing Crete\u2019s Wine Scene Crete has one of the world’s oldest wine cultures. Now, a new generation is pushing traditions forward with terroir-driven and small-production bottlings. By Susan Kostrzewa From left to right: Alexandra Manousakis of Manousakis Winery; Emmanouela Paterianaki of Domaine Paterianakis; Nikos Douloufakis of Douloufakis […]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/en\/news\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Wines of Crete\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Wines-of-Crete\/301108403247251\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-01-05T10:00:03+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-08-23T11:56:33+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.winesofcrete.gr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Crete_Greece-700x461-1.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"VG web things\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@winesofcrete\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@winesofcrete\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"VG web things\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/news\\\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/news\\\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"VG web things\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/66ff25a07f81975903ca4d50b06cefed\"},\"headline\":\"Wines of Crete in the Wine Enthusiast magazine!\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-01-05T10:00:03+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-08-23T11:56:33+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/news\\\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1869,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/news\\\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/07\\\/Crete_Greece-700x461-1.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"News & Events\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/news\\\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.winesofcrete.gr\\\/en\\\/news\\\/to-wines-of-crete-sto-amerikaniko-periodikoy-wine-enthusiast\\\/\",\"name\":\"Wines of Crete in the Wine Enthusiast magazine! 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